Cosmetic makeup and/or care process using a siloxane resin and a non-volatile oil

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in which a composition is applied to the keratin materials, and especially to the lips, this composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
         a) a siloxane resin comprising the following units:   (i) (R 1   3 SiO 1/2 ) a      (ii) (R 2   2 SiO 2/2 ) b      (iii) (R 3 SiO 3/2 ) c  and   (iv) (SiO 4/2 ) d  
 
with
   R 1 , R 2  and R 3  independently representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,   a being between 0.05 and 0.5,   b being between 0 and 0.3,   c being greater than 0,   d being between 0.05 and 0.6,   a+b+c+d=1,   on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R 3  of the siloxane resin are propyl groups, and   b) at least one non-volatile oil with a viscosity at 25° C. of less than or equal to 30 000 cPs.

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for keratin materials,especially the skin, the hair and the nails. The invention relates inparticular to makeup compositions for keratin materials.

One of the objects of the patent application is to produce makeupcompositions for keratin materials (skin, mucous membranes, fibre,eyelashes and integuments) that allow the application of a totaltransfer-resistant film with good comfort, without developing tackiness.

Another object of the patent application, solved by certain embodiments,is that of producing makeup compositions, especially for the lips, whichhave a good level of gloss.

Specifically, in the field of lipsticks, formulators are in search ofcompositions that have good comfort (suppleness) and gloss properties.This gloss, which brings out the beauty of the lips, is generallyobtained by formulating glossy oils and/or particles with glints. Whenformulation is performed with glossy oils, the makeup formulations thenhave the characteristic of being tacky. This tacky nature causes theseformulations to leave marks on supports, for instance glasses or coffeecups.

The comfort characteristic is especially directed towards preventing thedeposit of this composition, for example on the lips, from cracking.

Formulators are thus in search of starting materials and/or systems thatcan produce compositions whose deposit is characterized by comfort,gloss and a non-tacky effect.

These objects, and others, are achieved by means of a compositioncontaining, in a physiologically acceptable medium,

a) a siloxane resin comprising the following units:

(i) (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

(ii) (R² ₂SiO_(2/2))_(b)

(iii) (R³SiO_(3/2)), and

(iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d)

with

R¹, R² and R³ independently representing an alkyl group containing from1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,

a being between 0.05 and 0.5,

b being between 0 and 0.3,

c being greater than 0,

d being between 0.05 and 0.6,

a+b+c+d=1,

on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R³ of the siloxaneresin are propyl groups, and

b) at least one non-volatile oil with a viscosity at 25° C. of less thanor equal to 30 000 cPs.

Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following units:

(i) (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

(iii) (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) and

(iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d)

with

R¹ and R³ independently representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to8 carbon atoms, R¹ preferably being a methyl group and R³ preferablybeing a propyl group,

a being between 0.05 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,

c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,

d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 oralternatively between 0.2 and 0.55,

a+b+c+d=1,

on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R³ of the siloxaneresin are propyl groups.

The siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may beobtained via a process comprising the reaction of:

-   -   A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units (R¹        ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a) and (SiO_(4/2))_(d)        -   R¹ representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon            atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,        -   a and d being greater than zero,        -   the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and    -   B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol % of units        (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c),        -   R³ representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon            atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,        -   c being greater than zero,    -   on condition that at least 40 mol % of the groups R³ are propyl        groups,        in which the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85 and        preferably the mass ratio A/B is 30/70.

Advantageously, the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85.Preferably, the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30. Thesepreferred ratios have proven to afford comfortable deposits due to theabsence of percolation of the rigid particles of MQ resin in thedeposit.

The compositions according to the invention may be in various forms,especially in the form of a powder, an anhydrous dispersion, awater/oil, water/wax, oil/water, multiple or wax/water emulsion, or agel.

The resins that may be used according to the invention are especiallythose described in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the content ofwhich is incorporated herein by reference.

The MQ-T propyl resin a) according to the invention comprises thefollowing units:

(i) (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

(ii) (R² ₂SiO_(2/2))_(b)

(iii) (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) and

(iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d)

which are known in the prior art and which correspond, respectively, toM, D, T and Q units.

The amount of each unit present in the MQ-T propyl resin a) may beexpressed as a mole fraction (i.e. a, b, c or d) of the total number ofmoles of all the units M, D, T and Q present in the MQ-T propyl resina).

The value of a (mole fraction of M units) is between 0.05 and 0.5, oralternatively between 0.15 and 0.4.

The value of b (mole fraction of D units) is between 0 and 0.3,alternatively between 0 and 0.1, or alternatively between 0 and 0.05.Thus, the MQ-T propyl resin a) according to the invention may be free ofD units, or alternatively may comprise up to 0.3 mole fraction of Dunits.

Preferably, the MQ-T propyl resin a) according to the invention is freeof D units.

The value of c (mole fraction of T units) is greater than 0,alternatively between 0.05 and 0.65, or alternatively between 0.4 and0.65.

The value of d (mole fraction of Q units) is between 0.05 and 0.6,alternatively between 0.2 and 0.6, or alternatively between 0.2 and0.55.

The MQ-T propyl resin a) according to the invention is characterized inthat at least 40 mol %, preferably at least 50 mol % and preferably atleast 90 mol % of alkyl groups R₃ of the T units are propyl groups.

The radicals R¹, R² and R³ of the units of the MQ-T propyl resinindependently represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbonatoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group.

The alkyl groups may be chosen especially from methyl, ethyl, propyl,butyl, pentyl, hexyl and octyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl group is amethyl group or a propyl group.

The aryl groups may be chosen from phenyl, naphthyl, benzyl, tolyl,xylyl, xenyl, methylphenyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenyl-2-methylethyl,chlorophenyl, bromophenyl and fluorophenyl groups, the aryl grouppreferentially being a phenyl group.

In the present invention, the term “carbinol group” means any groupcontaining at least one hydroxyl radical bonded to a carbon (COH). Thecarbinol groups may thus contain more than one COH radical, for instance

If the carbinol group is free of aryl groups, it comprises at least 3carbon atoms. If the carbinol group comprises at least one aryl group,it comprises at least 6 carbon atoms.

As examples of carbinol groups free of aryl groups and comprising atleast 3 carbon atoms, mention may be made of the groups of formula R⁴OHin which R⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical comprisingat least 3 carbon atoms or a divalent hydrocarbonoxy radical comprisingat least 3 carbon atoms. As examples of groups R⁴, mention may be madeof alkylene radicals such as —(CH₂)_(x)—, the value of x being between 3and 10, —CH₂CH(CH₃)—, —CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂—, —CH₂CH₂CH(CH₂CH₃) CH₂CH₂CH₂— and—OCH(CH₃)(CH₂)_(x)—, the value of x being between 1 and 10.

As examples of carbinol groups comprising aryl groups bearing at least 6carbon atoms, mention may be made of the groups of formula R⁵OH in whichR⁵ represents an arylene radical such as —(CH₂)_(x)C₆H₄—, x having avalue between 0 and 10, —CH₂CH(CH₃)(CH₂)_(x)C₆H₄—, x having a value ofbetween 0 and 10, —(CH₂)_(x)C₆H₄(CH₂)_(x)—, x having a value between 1and 10. The carbinol groups comprising aryl groups generally comprisefrom 6 to 14 atoms.

According to the invention, the term “amino group” especially meansgroups of formula —R⁶NH₂ or —R⁶NHR⁷NH₂, R⁶ representing a divalenthydrocarbon-based radical containing at least 2 carbon atoms and R⁷representing a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing at least 2carbon atoms. The group R⁶ generally represents an alkylene radicalcontaining from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of groups R⁶ that may bementioned include ethylene, propylene, —CH₂CHCH₃—, butylene,—CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂—, pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethylhexamethylene,octamethylene and decamethylene groups.

The group R⁷ generally represents an alkylene radical containing from 2to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of groups R⁷ that may be mentioned includeethylene, propylene, —CH₂CHCH_(3—), butylene, —CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂—,pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethylhexamethylene, octamethylene anddecamethylene groups.

The amino groups are generally —CH₂CH₂CH₂NH₂ and —CH₂(CH₃)CHCH₂(H)NCH₃,—CH₂CH₂NHCH₂CH₂NH₂, —CH₂CH₂NH₂, —CH₂CH₂NHCH₃, —CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₂NH₂,—(CH₂CH₂NH)₃H and —CH₂CH₂NHCH₂CH₂NHC₄H₉.

Preferably, R¹ represents a methyl group, R² represents a methyl groupor a phenyl group, and R³ represents a propyl group.

Preferably, the MQ-T propyl resin a) according to the invention is freeof units D, and R¹ represents a methyl group, and R³ represents a propylgroup.

The siloxane units D, T or Q of the MQ-T propyl resin a) according tothe invention may comprise hydroxyl groups (—OH) and/or alkoxy groups.Such siloxane units comprising hydroxyl and/or alkoxy groups arecommonly present in siloxane resins having the general formulaR_(n)SiO_((4-n)/2).

These hydroxyl groups typically result from the reaction of ahydrolysable group on the siloxane unit with water; the alkoxy groupsresult from an incomplete hydrolysis when alkoxysilane precursors areused or result from the exchange of alcohol with hydrolysable groups.

Preferably, the total amount by weight of —OH groups present in the MQ-Tpropyl resin is about 3%, preferably 2% and preferably 1.5%. Preferably,the total amount by weight of alkoxy groups present in the MQ-T propylresin is less than or equal to 20% by weight and preferably less than orequal to 10% by weight.

There are no restrictions relating to the molecular mass of the MQ-Tpropyl siloxane resins, but the number-average molecular mass (M_(n)) isgenerally between 3000 and 10 000 or alternatively between 5000 and8000.

The MQ-T propyl resins that are suitable for use as component a) may beprepared according to the processes known in the prior art for preparingsiloxane resins of general formula R_(n)SiO_((4-n)/2) in which R is analkyl group and n is less than 1.8.

Alternatively, the MQ-T propyl resins may be prepared according to themethods described below.

The MQ-T propyl resins a) according to the invention are illustrated bythe MQ-T propyl resins comprising the following units:

((CH₃)₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

(R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) in which R³═CH₃CH₂CH₂—, and

(SiO_(4/2))_(d);

or the following units:

((CH₃)₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

((CH₃)₂SiO_(2/2))_(b)

(R³SiO_(3/2))_(a) in which R³═CH₃CH₂CH₂—, and

(SiO_(4/2))_(d);

or the following units:

((CH₃)₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

((CH₃)₂SiO_(2/2))_(b), ((CH₃) (C₆H₅)SiO_(2/2))_(b)′

(R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) in which R³═CH₃CH₂CH₂—, and

(SiO_(4/2))_(d);

or the following units:

((CH₃)₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

((CH₃)₂SiO_(2/2))_(b)

(R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) in which R³═CH₃CH₂CH₂—, and (C₆H₅SiO_(3/2))_(c)(SiO_(4/2))_(d);

or the following units:

((CH₃)₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

((CH₃)₂SiO_(2/2))_(b), ((CH₃) (C₆H₅)SiO_(2/2))_(b)′

(R³SiO_(3/2)), in which R³═CH₃CH₂CH₂—, and (C₆H₅SiO_(3/2))_(c)

(SiO_(4/2))_(d);

in which a has a total value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.5, thesum b+b′ has a total value in the resin of between 0 and 0.3, c has atotal value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.65 and d has a totalvalue in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.6.

The siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may beobtained via a process comprising the reaction between:

-   -   A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units (R¹        ₃SiO_(1/2)), and (SiO_(4/2))_(d)        -   R¹ representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon            atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,            -   a and d being greater than zero,        -   the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and    -   B) a T propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units        (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c),        -   R³ representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon            atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,            -   c being greater than zero,    -   on condition that at least 40 mol % of the groups R³ are propyl        groups,        in which the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85.

Component A) is an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol % of units (R¹₃SiO_(1/2))_(a) and (SiO_(4/2))_(d) in which R¹ is as defined above,i.e. it represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms,an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greaterthan zero, and the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5.

The MQ resins that may be used as component A), and the method forpreparing them, are known in the prior art. For example, U.S. Pat. No.2,814,601, belonging to Currie et al., dated 26 Nov. 1957, describes aprocess for manufacturing MQ resins by transformation of a water-solublesilicate into a silicic acid monomer or a silicic acid oligomer using anacid. Once the appropriate polymerization has been performed,trimethylchlorosilane end groups are introduced to obtain the MQ resin.Another process for preparing MQ resins is described in U.S. Pat. No.2,857,356 belonging to Goodwin, dated 21 Oct. 1958. Goodwin describes aprocess for manufacturing an MQ resin by cohydrolysis of a mixture of analkyl silicate and an organopolysiloxane trialkylsilane that ishydrolysable with water.

The MQ resins that are suitable for use as component A) in the presentinvention may contain units D and T, on condition that at least 80 mol %or even 90 mol % of the total siloxane units are units M and Q. The MQresins may also contain hydroxyl groups. The MQ resins may thus comprisehydroxyl groups in a total weight amount of between 2% and 10% andpreferably between 2% and 5%. The MQ resins may also comprise additionalend groups, residual hydroxyl groups being, for this purpose, reactedwith the groups M.

The component B) is a T propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol % ofunits (R³⁵SiO_(3/2))_(c), R³ being as defined above, i.e. representingan alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, acarbinol group or an amino group, c being greater than 0, on conditionthat at least 40 mol % of the groups R³ are propyl groups. Preferably,the T propyl resin according to the invention is a silsesquioxane resin.Silsesquioxane resins are well known in the prior art and are generallyobtained by hydrolysis of an organosilane comprising three hydrolysablegroups, such as halogen or alkoxy groups, present in the molecule.Component B) may thus be obtained by hydrolysis ofpropyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane or propyltripropoxysilane,or by cohydrolysis of the above-mentioned propylalkoxysilanes withvarious alkoxysilanes. Examples of these alkoxysilanes that may bementioned include methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane,methyltriisopropoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane andphenyltrimethoxysilane. Propyltrichlorosilane may also be hydrolysedalone, or in the presence of alcohol. In this case, the cohydrolysis maybe performed by adding methyltrichlorosilane, dimethyldichlorosilane,phenyl-trichlorosilane or similar chlorosilanes andmethyl-trimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane,methyltriisopropoxysilane or similar methylalkoxysilanes. As alcoholsthat are suitable for this purpose, mention may be made of methanol,ethanol, n-propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, methoxyethanol,ethoxyethanol or similar alcohols. As examples of solvents ofhydrocarbon type that may be used, mention may be made of toluene,xylene or similar aromatic hydrocarbons; hexane, heptane, isooctane orsimilar linear or partially branched saturated hydrocarbons; and alsocyclohexane or similar aliphatic hydrocarbons.

The T propyl resins as component B) according to the invention maycontain units M, D and Q, on condition that at least 80 mol % or even 90mol % of the total siloxane units are units T. The T propyl resins mayalso contain hydroxyl groups. Preferably, the T propyl resins comprisebetween 3% and 8% by weight of hydroxyl groups.

A polyorganosiloxane may also be added to the process according to theinvention as component C).

The polyorganosiloxanes that are useful as component C) according to theinvention comprise units R² ₂SiO_(2/2) or R³SiO_(3/2). Thepolyorganosiloxane may be added to introduce various units D and T intothe MQ-T propyl resins, so as to modify the properties of the resultingresins. The structure or the formula of the polyorganosiloxane is notlimiting, on condition that the said polyorganosiloxane comprises ameasurable amount of units R² ₂SiO_(2/2) or R³SiO_(3/2), and that thetotal amount of polyorganosiloxane added to the reaction between A) andB) does not amount to more than 50 mol % of units D or T in the reactionmixture.

The polyorganosiloxane may comprise combinations of units M, D, T and Q,provided that at least the units D or T are present. Thus, thepolyorganosiloxane may be chosen from fluid silicones, gums or resinsknown in the prior art and comprising units D or T, or mixtures thereof.The units D typically comprise methyl or phenyl groups or mixturesthereof as groups R². The units T typically comprise methyl or phenylgroups or mixtures thereof as groups R³. The polyorganosiloxane may be alinear fluid polydiorganosiloxane with a viscosity of between 10 and1000 cS (mm²/s). The fluid polydiorganosiloxane may be apolydimethylsiloxane or a polymethylphenylsiloxane. Thepolyorganosiloxane may also be an organosilsesquioxane resin. Theorganosilsesquioxane resin is typically a methylsilsesquioxane resin ora phenylsilsesquioxane resin.

The components A), B) and optionally C) may react via any method knownin the prior art for acting on the units M, D, T and Q. Preferably,however, the components A), B) and optionally C) react via acondensation reaction in the presence of a catalyst. The MQ resin istypically present in an aromatic hydrocarbon-based solvent or siloxanesolvent. Condensation reaction catalysts that may be used are especiallymetal hydroxides such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide; metalsalts such as silanolates, carboxylates and carbonates; amines;titanates such as tetrabutyl titanate; and mixtures thereof. Typically,the reaction between the components A), B) and optionally C) isperformed by heating the reaction mixture to temperatures ranging from50 to 140° C. and preferably ranging from 100 to 140° C. The reactionmay be performed as a semi-continuous or continuous process or in batchmode.

The mass ratio A/B in the reaction is between 95/5 and 15/85, preferablybetween 95/5 and 20/80 and preferably between 90/10 and 20/80.

Preferably, the mass ratio A/B is equal to 85/15, or 50/50, or 30/70, or95/5. Preferably, the mass ratio A/B is equal to 30/70.

The amount of component C) may vary, but on condition that it results ina content of less than 30 mol % of additional units D or T, relative tothe total molar amount of siloxane units in the reaction mixture.

Preferably, the siloxane resin is present in the composition in a totalsolids content of resin ranging from 1% to 80% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 70% byweight and better still ranging from 6% to 60% by weight.

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to theinvention is liquid.

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to theinvention is solid.

The term “solid” characterizes the state of the composition at roomtemperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, when it issolid, a hardness of between 30 and 300 g, or even from 50 to 200 g.

Protocol for Measuring the Hardness:

The measurement is performed according to the following protocol:

A sample of the composition under consideration is hot-cast into a stickmould 12.7 mm in diameter. The mould is then cooled in a freezer forabout one hour. The stick of lipstick is then stored at 20° C.

The hardness of the samples is measured after an interval of 24 hours.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressedin grams, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine sold by thecompany Indelco-Chatillon.

The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by a rigidtungsten wire 250 μm in diameter, advancing at a rate of 100 mm/minute.

The technique described above is usually referred to as the “cheesewire” method.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises lessthan 3% and better still less than 1% by weight of water relative to thetotal weight of the composition. More preferably, the composition istotally anhydrous. The term “anhydrous” especially means that water ispreferably not deliberately added to the composition, but may be presentin trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.

According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a makeupand/or care process in which the composition as defined previously isapplied to keratin materials, and especially to the lips.

Additional Polymer:

The compositions according to the invention may contain an additionalfilm-forming or non-film-forming polymer.

In the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” means apolymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliaryfilm-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous film thatadheres to keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, betterstill a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that thesaid film can be isolated and manipulated individually, for example whenthe said film is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as aTeflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

The composition may comprise an aqueous phase and the additional polymermay be present in this aqueous phase. In this case, the polymer willpreferably be a polymer in dispersion or an amphiphilic or associativepolymer.

The term “polymer in dispersion” means the water-insoluble polymerspresent in the form of particles of variable size. The polymer may ormay not be crosslinked. The size of the polymer particles is typicallybetween 25 and 500 nanometres and preferably between 50 and 200nanometres. The following polymers in aqueous dispersion may be used:Ultrasol 2075 from Ganz Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD from Daito Kasei,Avalure UR 450 from Noveon, DynamX from National Starch, Syntran 5760from Interpolymer, Acusol OP 301 and from Rohm & Haas, and Neocryl A1090 from Avecia.

The acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, NeocrylA-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and NeocrylA-523® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the companyDow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the companyDaito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer, Soltex OPTby the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic orstyrene/acrylic polymers sold under the brand name Joncryl® by thecompany Johnson Polymer, or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane soldunder the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the companyAvecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®,Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Sancure 861®, Sancure 878® and Sancure2060® by the company Goodrich, Impranil 85® by the company Bayer andAquamere H-1511® by the company Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold underthe brand name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, andvinyl dispersions, for instance Mexomer PAM® from the company Chimex,and mixtures thereof, are other examples of aqueous dispersions ofwater-dispersible film-forming polymer particles.

The term “amphiphilic or associative polymers” means polymers comprisingone or more hydrophilic parts that make them partially water-soluble andone or more hydrophobic parts via which the polymers associate orinteract. The following associative polymers may be used: Nuvis FX 1100from Elementis, Aculyn 22, Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 from Rohm & Haas,Viscophobe DB 1000 from Amerchol. Diblock copolymers formed from ahydrophilic block (polyacrylate or polyethylene glycol) and from ahydrophobic block (polystyrene or polysiloxane) may also be used.

Polymers that are soluble in an aqueous phase containing monodisperseparticles may be avoided, since they may cause aggregation of themonodisperse particles. The film-forming polymer may thus be insolublein such an aqueous phase.

The composition may comprise an oily phase and the film-forming polymermay be present in this oily phase. The polymer may then be in dispersionor in solution. The polymers of type NAD (non-aqueous dispersion) ormicrogels (for example KSG) may be used, as may polymers of the typePS-PA or styrene-based copolymers (Kraton, Regalite).

As examples of lipodispersible non-aqueous film-forming polymerdispersions in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particlesin one or more silicone and/or hydrocarbon-based oils, which may besurface-stabilized with at least one stabilizer, especially a block,grafted or random polymer, mention may be made of acrylic dispersions inisododecane, for instance Mexomer PAP® from the company Chimex, anddispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably anacrylic polymer, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymeradvantageously being dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizerat the surface of the particles as described especially in document WO04/055 081.

Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition ofthe present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, offree-radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of naturalorigin, and mixtures thereof.

The expression “free-radical film-forming polymer” means a polymerobtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially ethylenicallyunsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing(unlike polycondensates).

The film-forming polymers of free-radical type may be, in particular,vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization ofethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acidic groupand/or esters of these acidic monomers and/or amides of these acidicmonomers.

Monomers bearing an acidic group which may be used are α,β-ethylenicunsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. (Meth)acrylic acid andcrotonic acid are preferably used, and more preferably (meth)acrylicacid.

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from(meth)acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth)acrylates), especially(meth)acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a C₁-C₃₀ and preferablyC₁-C₂₀ alkyl, (meth)acrylates of an aryl, in particular of a C₆-C₁₀aryl, and (meth)acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl, in particular of a C₂-C₆hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are methylmethacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutylmethacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate andcyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned arehydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethylmethacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth)acrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylateand phenyl acrylate.

The (meth)acrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are thealkyl (meth)acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may beeither fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogenatoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.

Examples of amides of the acid monomers that may be mentioned are(meth)acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides, inparticular of a C₂-C₁₂ alkyl. Among the N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides thatmay be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide,N-t-octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from thehomopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinylesters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may bepolymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amidesthereof, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned are vinyl acetate, vinylneodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate.

Styrene monomers that may be mentioned are styrene and α-methylstyrene.

Among the film-forming polycondensates that may be mentioned arepolyurethanes, polyesters, polyesteramides, polyamides, epoxyesterresins and polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic andamphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics,polyurethane-polyvinyl-pyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes,polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas and polyurea-polyurethanes, andmixtures thereof.

The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensationof dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examplesof such acids that may be mentioned are: oxalic acid, malonic acid,dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelicacid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacicacid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid,dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid,1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid,2,5-norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid,2,5-naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid or 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combinationof at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, theones preferentially chosen are phthalic acid, isophthalic acid andterephthalic acid.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. Thediol used is preferably chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexanedimethanol and4-butanediol. Other polyols that may be used are glycerol,pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylol-propane.

The polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to that of thepolyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or aminoalcohols. Diamines that may be used are ethylenediamine,hexamethylenediamine and meta- or para-phenylenediamine. An aminoalcohol that may be used is monoethanolamine.

The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer bearing at leastone group —SO₃M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ionNH₄ ⁺ or a metal ion such as, for example, an Na⁺, Li⁺, K⁺, Mg²⁺, Ca²⁺,Cu²⁺, Fe²⁺ or Fe³′ ion. A difunctional aromatic monomer comprising sucha group —SO₃M may be used in particular.

The aromatic nucleus of the difunctional aromatic monomer also bearing agroup —SO₃M as described above may be chosen, for example, from benzene,naphthalene, anthracene, biphenyl, oxybiphenyl, sulfonylbiphenyl andmethylenebiphenyl nuclei. As examples of difunctional aromatic monomersalso bearing a group —SO₃M, mention may be made of: sulfoisophthalicacid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid,4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

According to one example of a composition according to the invention,the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fattyphase comprising organic solvents or oils (the film-forming polymer isthus said to be a liposoluble polymer). The liquid fatty phasepreferably comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with anon-volatile oil.

Examples of liposoluble polymers that may be mentioned are copolymers ofvinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom ofthe ester group and the vinyl ester containing a saturated, linear orbranched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked tothe carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer whichmay be a vinyl ester (other than the vinyl ester already present), anα-olefin (containing from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether(in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or anallylic or methallylic ester (containing a saturated, linear or branchedhydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to thecarbonyl of the ester group).

These copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of crosslinking agents,which may be either of the vinyl type or of the allylic or methallylictype, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyloctane-dioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecane-dioate.

Examples of these copolymers that may be mentioned are the followingcopolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate,vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinylacetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinylpropionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/1-octadecene, vinylacetate/1-dodecene, vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinylpropionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl2,2-dimethyloctanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2,2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyllaurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, allyldimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate,crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyllaurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecylvinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinylacetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl-benzene, vinylacetate/1-octadecene, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, and allylpropionate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene.

Examples of liposoluble film-forming polymers that may be mentionedinclude copolymers of a vinyl ester and of at least one other monomerthat may be a vinyl ester, especially vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl benzoateand vinyl t-butylbenzoate, an α-olefin, an alkyl vinyl ether or anallylic or methallylic ester.

Examples of liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentionedare liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from thecopolymerization of vinyl esters containing from 9 to 22 carbon atoms orof alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and alkyl radicals containing from10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of polyvinylstearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene,of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, polystearyl (meth)acrylate,polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl (meth)acrylate, it being possible forthese poly(meth)acrylates to be crosslinked with the aid of ethyleneglycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are described inparticular in patent application FR-A-2 232 303; they may have aweight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500 000 andpreferably from 4000 to 200 000.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers that may be used in the invention,mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymersof C₂-C₂₀ alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₈ alkyl radical, for instanceethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP)and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C₂ to C₄₀ andbetter still C₃ to C₂₀ alkene. As examples of VP copolymers which may beused in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP/vinylacetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinyl-pyrrolidone (PVP),VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene,VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.

Mention may also be made of silicone resins, which are generally solubleor swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxanepolymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name“MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxanemonomer units it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing atype of unit.

Examples of commercially available polymethyl-silsesquioxane resins thatmay be mentioned include those sold by the company Wacker under thereference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK, or by the company Shin-Etsuunder the reference KR-220L.

Examples of commercially available polypropyl-silsesquioxane resins thatmay be mentioned include those sold under the reference DC670 by thecompany Dow Corning.

Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 bythe company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, soldunder the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, and DC 749 and DC 593by the company Dow Corning.

In the case of skin makeup or care compositions, the combination of aresin according to the invention with a trimethyl siloxysilicate resinor a polypropylsilsesquioxane resin makes it possible to improve thedurability of the transfer resistance.

Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as thosementioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, for instance thepressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corningunder the reference Bio-PSA and described in document U.S. Pat. No.5,162,410, or the silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of asilicone resin, such as those described above, and of adiorganosiloxane, as described in document WO 2004/073 626.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymeris a film-forming block ethylenic polymer (which is preferablyessentially linear), which preferably comprises at least a first blockand at least a second block with different glass transition temperatures(Tg), the said first and second blocks being linked together via anintermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of thefirst block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.

Advantageously, the first and second blocks of the block polymer aremutually incompatible.

Such polymers are described, for example, in documents EP 1 411 069 orWO 04/028 488.

Preferably, according to this embodiment, the block ethylenic polymer,comprising at least a first block and at least a second block, ischaracterized in that the first block is obtained from at least oneacrylate monomer of formula CH₂═CH—COOR₂ in which R₂ represents a C₄ toC₁₂ cycloalkyl group and at least one methacrylate monomer of formulaCH₂═C(CH₃)—COOR₂ in which R′₂ represents a C₄ to C₁₂ cycloalkyl group,and characterized in that the second block is obtained from an acrylicacid monomer and from at least one monomer with a glass transitiontemperature of less than or equal to 20° C. Such polymers and theprocess for preparing them are described, for example, in document EP 1882 709.

The film-forming polymer may be chosen from block or random polymersand/or copolymers especially comprising polyurethanes, polyacrylics,silicones, fluoro polymers, butyl rubbers, ethylene copolymers, naturalgums and polyvinyl alcohols, and mixtures thereof. The monomers of theblock or random copolymers comprising at least one combination ofmonomers whose resulting polymer has a glass transition temperature ofless than room temperature (25° C.) may be chosen especially frombutadiene, ethylene, propylene, acrylic, methacrylic, isoprene,isobutene and a silicone, and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polymer may also be present in the first and/or secondcomposition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or ina non-aqueous solvent phase, which is generally known as a latex orpseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are wellknown to those skilled in the art.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizerthat promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.Such a plasticizer may be chosen from any compound known to thoseskilled in the art as being capable of satisfying the desired function.

As other examples of film-forming systems that may be used in thecompositions according to the invention, mention may be made of systemsin which the film is formed in situ at the time of application of thecomposition or of a mixture of compositions containing two siliconecompounds that react together when they are placed in contact. Suchsystems are described especially in patent application WO 2007/071 706,the content of which is incorporated herein by reference. Systems ofthis type are also described in patent applications US 2007/142 575 andUS 2007/142 599, the content of which is also incorporated herein byreference.

Other Polymers:

The compositions according to the invention may contain an elastomer,especially a polyglycerolated silicone elastomer. By way of example, useis made of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane that may beobtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxanecontaining at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and ofpolyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenically unsaturated groups,especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers that may be used include those soldunder the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840 by thecompany Shin-Etsu.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise anadditional emulsifying silicone elastomer.

By way of example, use may be made of polyoxyalkylenated elastomers asdescribed especially in U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No.5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, thecontent of which is incorporated by reference.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used include thosesold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33,KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340 and X-226146 by the companyShin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.

When they are in combination with the resins according to the invention,these particular elastomers may make it possible to improve thetransfer-resistance and comfort (suppleness) properties of thecompositions comprising them.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise anon-emulsifying elastomer.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patentapplications JP-A-61-194 009, EP-A-242 219, EP-A-285 886 and EP-A-765656, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those soldunder the names DC9040, DC9041, DC9509, DC9505 and DC9506 by the companyDow Corning.

The spherical non-emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be in the formof an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated withsilicone resin, especially with silsesquioxane resin, as described, forexample, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793, the content of which isincorporated by reference. Such elastomers are sold under the namesKSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the companyShin-Etsu.

Other elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes in the form ofspherical powders may be powders of a hybrid silicone functionalizedwith fluoroalkyl groups, sold especially under the name KSP-200 by thecompany

Shin-Etsu; powders of a hybrid silicone functionalized with phenylgroups, sold especially under the name KSP-300 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Silicone elastomers bearing a group MQ, such as those sold by thecompany Wacker under the names Belsil RG100, Belsil RPG33 and,preferentially, RG80, may also be used in the compositions according tothe invention. These particular elastomers, when they are in combinationwith the resins according to the invention, may make it possible toimprove the transfer-resistance properties of the compositionscomprising them.

The Oils:

The composition according to the invention comprises at least onenon-volatile oil.

The non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/orfluoro oils.

The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that isliquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on keratinmaterials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at leastseveral hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil may also be defined as having anevaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, theamount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm².

These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from,or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygenand nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It maycontain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amidegroups.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one siliconatom, and especially comprising Si—O groups.

The non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight,preferentially ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and preferentiallyranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Preferably, the non-volatile oil has a viscosity of less than or equalto 30 000 cPs at 25° C.

Protocol for Measuring the Viscosity:

The viscosity is measured at 25° C.±0.5° C. using a Haake RS75controlled-stress rheometer from the company Thermo Rheo equipped with aspindle of cone/plate geometry with a diameter of between 2 cm and 6 cmand an angle of between 1° and 2°, the choice of the spindle dependingon the viscosity to be measured (the more fluid the oil, the greater thediameter of the chosen cone and the smaller the angle). The measurementis performed by applying on the oil sample a logarithmic shear stressgradient ranging from 0.2 Pa to 1000 Pa for a duration of 20 minutes.The rheogram representing the change in viscosity as a function of therate of shear ε′ is then plotted. The rheogram shows a plateau at lowshear rate values (known as a Newtonian plateau); this plateaucorresponds to a stable viscosity value, which is the viscosity of theoil thus determined.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, especially in the case ofcompositions intended to be applied to the lips, mention may be madeespecially of:

-   -   hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as triglycerides        formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of        which may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₂₄, these        chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or        unsaturated, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid        triglycerides; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil,        sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot        oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil,        sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil,        hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil,        pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant        oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil,        rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or        musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid        triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company        Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®,        812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,    -   synthetic ethers;    -   linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin,        such as liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly,        polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® or        Parleam V® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, and squalane,        and mixtures thereof;    -   fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and        especially of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic        acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol        dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, poly-2-glyceryl        diisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate,    -   synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R₁COOR₂ in        which R₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue        comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a        hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched,        containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that        R₁+R₂≧11, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate),        isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂ to C₁₅ alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl        palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate,        isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or        polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl        myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate,        diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl        laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate,        2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate or isodecyl        neopentanoate;    -   hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl        hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl        malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl        triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and    -   pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols        comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl        trimellitate,    -   polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid        dimer and/or trimer and of a diol, such as those described in        patent application FR 08/53634, in particular such as dilinoleic        acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made especially in this        respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name        Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol        copolymer),    -   fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a        branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 8        to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol        or linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;    -   C₈-C₂₆ higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid,        linolenic acid or isostearic acid;    -   and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when the non-volatile oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil, it hasa viscosity at 25° C. of less than or equal to 30 000 cPs and preferablybetween 5 and 30 000 cPs.

Comment: in general, the term “between” includes the limit values of therange.

According to a first advantageous embodiment of the invention, thenon-volatile oil is a linear or branched hydrocarbon. According to thisembodiment, the non-volatile oil preferably has a viscosity at 25° C. ofbetween 20 and 30 000 cPs.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, thenon-volatile oil is a non-volatile ester oil such as those mentionedpreviously. According to this embodiment, the non-volatile ester oilpreferably has a viscosity at 25° C. of less than or equal to 2000 cPs.These ester oils allow the production of a composition that has a goodlevel of gloss.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oilthat may be used in the composition is a silicone oil. According to thisembodiment, the silicone oil preferably has a viscosity at 25° C. ofless than or equal to 2000 cPs and preferably between 5 and 1000 cPs.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the compositionaccording to the invention may be chosen from:

-   -   non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes        comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and/or at        the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2        to 24 carbon atoms, such as the PDMSs DC 200 Fluid 5 cSt and 350        cSt sold by Dow Corning,    -   phenyl silicone oils (the term “phenyl silicone” means an        organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group),        for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl        trimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,        diphenyl methyl diphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl        trimethylsiloxy silicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones        with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures        thereof.

In particular, the silicone oil may correspond to the formula:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methylor a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the said organopolysiloxanecomprises at least three phenyl groups for example at least four or atleast five.

Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may beused.

Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl,tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopoly-siloxane.

When the anhydrous composition according to the invention is intended tobe applied to the skin (e.g.: foundation, makeup rouge, etc.),non-volatile C6-C22 hydrocarbon-based oils will preferentially be used,which may be chosen from:

-   -   carbonates of formula (I) below: R1-O—C(═O)—O —R′1, with R1 and        R′1, which may be identical or different, representing a linear        or branched, saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated) C4        to C12 and preferentially C5 to C₁₀ alkyl chain, optionally        containing at least one saturated or unsaturated ring, which is        preferably saturated;

these oils of formula (I) possibly being dicaprylyl carbonate, soldunder the name Cetiol CC® by the company Cognis, bis(2-ethylhexyl)carbonate, sold under the name Tegosoft DEC® by the company Goldschmidt,diisobutyryl carbonate; dineopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate;dineoheptyl carbonate; diheptyl carbonate; diisononyl carbonate; ordinonyl carbonate;

-   -   the monoesters of formula (II): R2-O—C(═O)—R′2, with R2 and R′2,        which may be identical or different, representing a linear or        branched, saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated) C4 to        C12 and preferentially C5 to C₁₀ alkyl chain, optionally        containing at least one saturated or unsaturated ring, which is        preferably saturated;

these oils of formula (II) possibly being 2-ethylhexyl isobutyrate,2-ethylhexyl butyrate, caprylyl butyrate, isononyl isobutyrate,2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, isononyl hexanoate, neopentyl hexanoate,caprylyl heptanoate or octyl octanoate, sold under the name Dragoxat EH®by the company Symrise, and isononyl isononanoate,

diesters of the following formula (III): R3-O—C(═O)—R′3-C(═O)—O—R″3,with R3 and R″3, which may be identical or different, representing alinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated) C4to C12 and preferentially C5 to C₁₀ alkyl chain, optionally bearing atleast one saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated ring, and R′3represents a saturated or unsaturated C1 to C4 and preferably C2 to C4alkylene chain, for instance an alkylene chain derived from succinate(in this case R′3 is a saturated C2 alkylene chain), maleate (in thiscase R′3 is an unsaturated C2 alkylene chain), glutarate (in this caseR′3 is a saturated C3 alkylene chain) or adipate (in this case R′3 is asaturated C3-C4 alkylene chain); in particular, R3 and R″3 are chosenfrom isobutyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, heptyl, neoheptyl,2-ethylhexyl, octyl, nonyl and isononyl; mention may be madepreferentially of dicaprylyl maleate, sold especially by the companyALZO; bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate;

-   -   the ethers of the following formula (IV): R4-O—R4′, with R4 and        R4′, which may be identical or different, representing a linear        or branched, saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated) C4        to C12 and preferentially C5 to C₁₀ alkyl chain, optionally        bearing at least one saturated or unsaturated, preferably        saturated ring; in particular, R4 and R4′ are chosen from        isobutyl, pentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, heptyl, neoheptyl,        2-ethylhexyl, octyl, nonyl, isononyl; among the compounds of        formula (IV), dicaprylyl ether, sold under the name Cetiol OE®        by the company Cognis may preferentially be mentioned;    -   the alkyl triesters of formula (V):        R5-O—C(O)—CH2-CH[—O—C(O)—R′5]-CH₂—O—C(O)—R″5, with R5, R′5 and        R″5, which may be identical or different, representing a linear        or branched, saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated)        C4-C10 and preferably C5-C8 alkyl chain, in particular R5, R′5        and R″5 are identical; preferably, R5, R′5 and R″5 (in        particular identical) are alkyl radicals of the following fatty        acids: caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, neopentanoic acid or        neoheptanoic acid; mention may be made preferentially, as a        compound of formula (V), of caprylic/capric triglyceride, sold        especially under the name Myritol 318® by the company Cognis;    -   and mixtures thereof.

The C6-C22 non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil advantageously used in thecontext of compositions intended especially to be applied to the skin iscaprylic/capric triglyceride, sold especially under the name Myritol318® by the company Cognis.

Volatile Oil:

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least onevolatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” means an oilthat is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in lessthan one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).The volatile organic solvent(s) and the volatile oils of the inventionare volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, which are liquid atroom temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperatureand atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000Pa (10⁻³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa(0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa(0.01 to 10 mmHg).

These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils,or mixtures thereof.

a. Silicone Oil

According to one variant of the invention, the volatile oil is avolatile silicone oil.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one siliconatom and especially comprising Si—O groups.

The volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may bechosen from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from 40° C. to 102°C., preferably with a flashpoint of greater than 55° C. and less than orequal to 95° C., and preferentially ranging from 65° C. to 95° C.

The volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic siliconeoils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containingfrom 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone,hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane orD5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethyl-siloxane or D4),dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D⁶), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), KF 96A from Shin-Etsu, the polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under thereference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt) and DC 200 (3 cSt) by DowCorning.

b. Hydrocarbon-Based Oil

According to one variant of the invention, the volatile oil is avolatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil formed essentially from,or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygenand nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. Itmay contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amidegroups.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils (also known as solvents) may bechosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms,and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanesof petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instanceisododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane,isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar orPermethyl, C8-C16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixturesthereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleumdistillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by thecompany Shell, may also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent ischosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

As other volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents (oils) that may be used inthe composition according to the invention, mention may also be made ofketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethylketone, acetone; short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atomsin total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate orn-butyl acetate; ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such asdiethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols andespecially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.

c. Fluoro Oils

The volatile oil may also be chosen from fluoro oils such asperfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, for instance perfluorodecalin,perfluoroadamantanes, perfluoroalkyl phosphate monoesters, diesters andtriesters, and fluoro ester oils.

The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to theinvention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, preferablyranging from 1% to 70% by weight and preferentially ranging from 5% to50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Structuring Agents:

The composition according to the invention may comprise a structuringagent.

The term “structuring agent” means a compound capable of increasing theviscosity of the composition. The structuring agent makes it possibleespecially to obtain a composition that can have a texture ranging fromfluid to solid textures.

The structuring agent may be present in the composition in a contentranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30%by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

The structuring agent may be chosen especially from thickeners(oily-medium thickeners; aqueous-medium thickeners), organogellingagents, waxes, pasty compounds and gums.

The aqueous-medium thickener may be chosen from:

-   -   hydrophilic clays,    -   hydrophilic fumed silica,    -   water-soluble cellulose-based thickeners,    -   guar gum, xanthan gum, carob gum, scleroglucan gum, gellan gum,        rhamsan gum, karaya gum or carrageenan gum,    -   alginates, maltodextrins, starch and its derivatives, and        hyaluronic acid and its salts,    -   the polyglyceryl (meth)acrylate polymers sold under the names        “Hispagel” or “Lubragel” by the companies Hispano Quimica or        Guardian,    -   polyvinylpyrrolidone,    -   polyvinyl alcohol,    -   crosslinked acrylamide polymers and copolymers, such as those        sold under the names PAS 5161 or Bozepol C by the company        Hoechst, Sepigel 305 by the company SEPPIC by the company Allied        Colloid, or alternatively    -   the crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethyl-ammonium chloride        homopolymers sold under the name “Salcare SC95” by the company        Allied Colloid,    -   associative polymers and especially associative polyurethanes.

Such thickeners are described especially in patent application EP-A-1400 234, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

The oily-medium thickener may be chosen from:

-   -   carboxylate silicones,    -   saccharide silicones,    -   organophilic clays;    -   hydrophobic fumed silicas;    -   alkyl guar gums (with a C₁-C₆ alkyl group), such as those        described in EP-A-708 114;    -   hydrophobic celluloses,    -   oil-gelling polymers, for instance triblock polymers or star        polymers resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization        of at least one monomer containing an ethylenic group, for        instance the polymers sold under the name Kraton;    -   polymers with a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100        000, comprising a) a polymer skeleton containing        hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one        heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendent fatty chain        and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, which are optionally        functionalized, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being        linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in patent        applications WO-A-02/056847 and WO-A-02/47619, the content of        which is incorporated by reference; in particular, polyamide        resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to        22 carbon atoms) such as those described in U.S. Pat. No.        5,783,657, the content of which is incorporated by reference;    -   the silicone-based polyamide resins as described in patent        application EP-A-1 266 647 and in the French patent application        filed under the number 0 216 039, the content of which is        incorporated by reference.

Such thickeners are especially described in patent application EP-A-1400 234, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

The organogelling agents may be chosen from those described in patentapplication WO-A-03/105 788, the content of which is incorporated byreference.

In particular, it may be advantageous to combine the resins according tothe invention with particular organogelling agents, and especially:

-   -   the bis-urea derivatives of general formula (I):

in which:

-   -   A is a group of formula:

with R′ being a linear or branched C₁ to C₄ alkyl radical and the *ssymbolizing the points of attachment of the group A to each of the twonitrogen atoms of the rest of the compound of general formula (I), and

-   -   R is a saturated or unsaturated, non-cyclic, mono-branched C₆ to        C₁₅ alkyl radical whose hydrocarbon-based chain is optionally        interrupted with 1 to 3 heteroatoms chosen from O, S and N, or a        salt or isomer thereof, described especially in patent        application FR-A-2 892 303,    -   the silicone bis-urea derivatives of general formula (I), or a        salt and/or isomer thereof:

in which:

-   -   A is a group of formula (II):

with R₁ being a linear or branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, and the *ssymbolizing the points of attachment of the group A to each of the twonitrogen atoms of the rest of the compound of general formula (I), and

-   -   R and R′, which may be identical or different, are chosen from:    -   i) the radicals of formula (III):

in which:

-   -   L is a single bond or a divalent carbon-based radical,        especially a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or        unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical (alkylene), containing 1        to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms        chosen from N, O and S;    -   R_(a) is:

a) a carbon-based radical, especially a linear, branched and/or cyclic,saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical (alkyl), containing 1to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms chosenfrom N, O, Si and S; or

b) a silicone radical of formula:

with n being between 0 and 100, especially between 1 and 80, or even 2to 20;

and R₂ to R₆ being, independently of each other, carbon-based radicals,especially linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals (alkyl)containing 1 to 12 and especially 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and possiblycomprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms, especially 0;

-   -   R_(b) and R_(c) are, independently of each other, chosen from:

a) carbon-based radicals, especially linear, branched and/or cyclic,saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radicals (alkyl), containing1 to 18 carbon atoms, and possibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosenfrom N, O, Si and S;

b) the radicals of formula:

with n being between 0 and 100, especially between 1 and 80, or even 2to 20;

and R′₂ to R′₆ being, independently of each other, carbon-basedradicals, especially linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radicals(alkyl), containing 1 to 12 and especially 1 to 6 carbon atoms, andpossibly comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms, especially 0; and

-   -   ii) linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated        C₁-C₃₀ alkyl radicals, optionally comprising 1 to 3 heteroatoms        chosen from O, S, F and N;

it being understood that at least one of the radicals R and/or R′ is offormula (III), such as those described in patent application FR-A-2 900819,

-   -   the bis-urea derivatives described in patent application FR-A-2        899 4476.

Wax(es)

The composition may comprise at least one solid fatty substance chosenfrom waxes, as structuring agent.

The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention isgenerally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a meltingpoint of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to 200° C. andin particular up to 120° C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have amelting point of greater than or equal to 45° C. and in particulargreater than or equal to 55° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to thetemperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis(DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point ofthe wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC),for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the companyTA Instruments.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a firsttemperature rise ranging from −20° C. to 100° C., at a heating rate of10° C./minute, it is then cooled from 100° C. to −20° C. at a coolingrate of 10° C./minute and is finally subjected to a second temperatureincrease ranging from −20° C. to 100° C. at a heating rate of 5°C./minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation of thedifference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the cruciblecontaining the sample of wax is measured as a function of thetemperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature valuecorresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing thevariation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of thetemperature.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature ofanimal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

As illustrations of waxes that are suitable for the invention, mentionmay be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax,lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax,candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax,Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax,microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, thewaxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, andalso esters thereof.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation ofanimal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains.Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are isomerized jojobaoil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oilmanufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercialreference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenatedcastor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil andbis(1,1,1-trimethylol-propane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest2T-4S® by the company Heterene.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C₃₀₋₄₅ alkyl dimethicone)and fluoro waxes.

The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetylalcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by thecompany Sophim, may also be used. Such waxes are described in patentapplication FR-A-2 792 190.

A wax that may be used is a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate(the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as amixture.

Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®,Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K 82 H® bythe company Koster Keunen.

As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes, suchas the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MicroPowders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the product sold under the nameMicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes consisting of amixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products soldunder the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders,microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax,such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the companyMicro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold underthe names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L and 250S® by the company MicroPowders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the productssold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MicroPowders.

The composition according to the invention may have a wax contentranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight and better still from 1% to 30% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pasty Compounds

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least onepasty compound as structuring agent. Pasty fatty substances areconsidered as solid fatty substances for the purposes of the presentinvention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty” means alipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquidchange of state and that comprises in the solid state an anisotropiccrystal organization, and comprises, at a temperature of 23° C., aliquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound is lessthan 23° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23° C.may represent 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fractionat 23° C. preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferablybetween 40% and 85% by weight.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23° C. is equalto the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. to the heat offusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the heat consumed by thecompound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pastycompound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is insolid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state whenall of its mass is in liquid form.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under thecurve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanningcalorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10° C. perminute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The heat of fusion ofthe pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compoundchange from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23° C. is the amount of energy absorbedby the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at23° C., constituted of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32° C.,preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound,preferably from 50% to 100% and more preferably from 60% to 100% byweight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compoundmeasured at 32° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of themelting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32° C. is equal tothe ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. to the heat of fusionof the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32° C. iscalculated in the same manner as the heat of fusion consumed at 23° C.

The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds andcompounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesisfrom starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from:

-   -   i) lanolin and derivatives thereof,    -   ii) polymer or non-polymer silicone compounds,    -   iii) polymer or non-polymer fluoro compounds,    -   iv) vinyl polymers, especially:    -   v) olefin homopolymers    -   vi) olefin copolymers    -   vii) hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers    -   viii) linear or branched oligomers, which are homopolymers or        copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a        C₈-C₃₀ alkyl group    -   ix) oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl        esters containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups    -   x) oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl        ethers containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,    -   xi) liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification        between one or more C₂-C₁₀₀ and preferably C₂-C₅₀ diols,    -   xii) esters,    -   xiii) and mixtures thereof.

Among the esters that are especially preferred are:

-   -   xiv) esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol        esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of        glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols        have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid,        capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and        12-hydroxystearic acid, especially such as the product sold        under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,    -   xV) arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801        by Alzo,    -   xvi) phytosterol esters,    -   xvii) fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof,    -   xviii) pentaerythritol esters,    -   xix) non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation        between a linear or branched C₄-C₅₀ dicarboxylic acid or        polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅₀ diol or polyol,    -   xx) aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the        esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid with an        aliphatic carboxylic acid,    -   xxi) polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a        polycarboxylic acid, of an ester of an aliphatic        hydroxycarboxylic acid, the said ester comprising at least two        hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H® and        Risocast DA-L®,    -   xxii) esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where        appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s)        with acid or alcohol radicals, such as Plandool-G,    -   xxiii) and mixtures thereof.

Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soybean sterolsand of oxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol,sold under the reference Lanolide by the company Vevy, will preferablybe chosen.

Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of pasty fattysubstances ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40%by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to theweight of the composition.

The gums are generally polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecularweight or cellulose gums or polysaccharides.

Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least onesurfactant.

The surfactant may be lipophilic and/or hydrophilic, used alone or incombination.

The surfactant may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic andamphoteric surfactants.

The nonionic surfactant may be chosen from:

-   -   a C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated        and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C₈-C₂₂)alkyl dimethyl methyl        siloxane.

The C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound offormula (I) below:

in which:

-   -   PE represents (—C₂H₄O)_(x)—(C₃H₆O)_(y)—R, R being chosen from a        hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x        ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not        simultaneously being 0    -   m ranging from 1 to 40    -   n ranging from 10 to 200    -   o ranging from 1 to 100    -   p ranging from 7 to 21    -   q ranging from 0 to 4

and preferably:

R═H

m=1 to 10

n=10 to 100

o=1 to 30

p=15

q=3.

A C₈-C₂₂ alkyl dimethicone copolyol that may be mentioned is cetyldimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name AbilEM-90 by the company Goldschmidt.

-   -   a dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or        oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxane. It contains no        alkyl groups with a chain length of more than 8 carbon atoms,        especially C₈-C₂₂.

Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those corresponding toformula (II) below:

in which:

R₁, R₂ and R₃, independently of each other, represent a C₁-C₆ alkylradical or a radical —(CH₂)_(x)—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—(OCH₂CH₂CH₂)_(z)—OR₄, atleast one radical R₁, R₂ or R₃ not being an alkyl radical; R₄ being ahydrogen, a C₁-C₃ alkyl radical or a C₂-C₄ acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A and B are notsimultaneously equal to zero;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compoundof formula (II), R₁═R₃=methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R₄ is in particular ahydrogen.

Examples of compounds of formula (II) that may be mentioned include thecompounds of formula (III):

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

Examples of silicone compounds of formula (II) that may also bementioned include the compounds of formula (IV):

HO—(CH₂OH₂O)_(y)—(CH₂)₃—[(CH₃)₂SiO]_(A′)—[(CH₃)₂Si]—(CH₂)₃—(OCH₂CH₂)_(y)—OH  (IV)

in which A′ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those sold under thenames DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company DowCorning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016 and KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC2-5695 are compounds of formula(III) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, Bis 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

Nonionic surfactants that may also be mentioned include fatty acidesters of polyols, for instance sorbitol or glyceryl mono-, di-, tri- orsesqui-oleates or stearates, glyceryl or polyethylene glycol laurates;fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (polyethylene glycolmonostearate or monolaurate); polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters(stearate or oleate) of sorbitol; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl,cetyl, stearyl or octyl)ethers.

Anionic surfactants that may be mentioned include carboxylates (sodium2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy)acetate)), amino acid derivatives(N-acylglutamates, N-acylglycinates or acylsarcosinates), alkylsulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and oxyethylenated derivatives thereof,sulfonates, isethionates and N-acylisethionates, taurates and N-acylN-methyltaurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates andalkyl phosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkylpolyglycoside (acyl-D-galactoside uronate), and fatty acid soaps, andmixtures thereof.

Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that may be used includebetaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycinederivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates andalkylamphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.

Such surfactants are described especially in patent applicationWO-A-02/056 854, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

The surfactant may be present in the composition according to theinvention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferablyranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5%to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dyestuffs:

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least onedyestuff.

The dyestuff may be chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs (especiallypigments and nacres) and water-soluble dyestuffs.

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured,mineral or organic particles of any form, which are insoluble in thephysiological medium, and which are intended to colour the composition.

The term “nacres” should be understood as meaning iridescent particlesof any form, produced especially by certain molluscs in their shell, orelse synthesized.

The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic. Amongthe mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide,optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and alsozinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide,manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue,and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder or copper powder.

Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black,pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or onbarium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

Mention may also be made of pigments with an effect, such as particlescomprising a natural or synthetic, organic or mineral substrate, forexample glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethyleneterephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, the said substrate being uncoatedor coated with metallic substances, for instance aluminium, gold,silver, platinum, copper or bronze, or with metal oxides, for instancetitanium dioxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

The nacreous pigments may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such asmica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreouspigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium micacoated especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium micacoated with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and alsonacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Interference pigments,especially liquid-crystal or multilayer interference pigments, may alsobe used.

The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited above especiallydenotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms andpreferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in patentapplication EP-A-1 086 683.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methyleneblue.

The synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes are, for example, DC Red 17,DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls(capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinolineyellow, annatto and curcumin.

The dyestuffs, in particular the pigments treated with a hydrophobicagent, may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1%to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight andpreferentially ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Fillers:

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least onefiller.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “filler” denotessolid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form anddispersed in the medium of the composition, even at temperatures thatmay be up to the melting point of all the fatty substances of thecomposition.

Generally, the fillers used according to the invention are colourless orwhite, namely non-pigmentary, i.e. they are not used to give aparticular colour or shade to the composition according to theinvention, even though their use may inherently lead to such a result.These fillers serve especially to modify the rheology or texture of thecomposition.

In this respect, they are different from nacres, organic pigmentarymaterials, for instance carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakesbased on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium oraluminium, and inorganic pigmentary materials, for instance titaniumdioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxides (black,yellow or red), chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue,chromium hydrate and ferric blue, which are, themselves, used to give ashade and coloration to the compositions incorporating them.

For the purposes of the invention, such compounds are not covered by thedefinition of fillers, which thus covers non-pigmentary fillers, whichmay be organic or inorganic.

The non-pigmentary fillers used in the compositions according to thepresent invention may be of lamellar, globular or spherical form, offibre type, or of any intermediate form between these defined forms.

The size of the particles, i.e. their granulometry, is chosen so as toensure the good dispersion of the fillers in the composition accordingto the invention. The granulometry of the particles may be distributedwithin the range from 5 μm to 10 nm and in particular from 10 μm to 10nm.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated,in particular surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoroderivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion andcompatibility of the filler in the composition.

Mineral Fillers

For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “mineral” and“inorganic” are used interchangeably.

Among the non-pigmentary mineral fillers that may be used in thecompositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc,mica, silica, perlite, which is especially commercially available fromthe company World Minerals Europe under the trade name Perlite P1430,Perlite P2550 or Perlite P204, kaolin, precipitated calcium carbonate,magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boronnitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), andglass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to theinvention comprises at least one non-pigmentary mineral filler chosenfrom the group comprising kaolin, talc, silica, perlite and clay, andmixtures thereof.

Organic Fillers

Among the organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powder(Orgasol® Nylon® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylenepowder, lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders(Teflon®), hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidenechloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) or ofacrylic acid copolymer (such as Polytrap (Dow Corning)), acrylatecopolymers, PMMA, 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate and siliconeresin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), magnesiumcarbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, and metal soaps derived fromorganic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms andpreferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate,magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesiummyristate, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the organic fillers aredifferent from the pigments.

They may also be particles comprising a copolymer, the said copolymercomprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be ahexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer. Suchparticles are especially commercially available, for example under thename Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the companyToshiki.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may compriseat least one filler chosen from talc, silica, starch, clay, kaolin andperlite, and mixtures thereof.

One or more dispersants may be used, where appropriate, to protect thedispersed fillers or particles against aggregation or flocculation. Theymay be added independently of the solid fillers or particles or in theform of a colloidal dispersion of particles.

The concentration of dispersants is chosen so as to obtain satisfactorydispersion of the solid particles (without flocculation).

This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixtureof several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strongaffinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. Inparticular, poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) esters are used, such aspoly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000® bythe company Avecia, esters of poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) with polyolssuch as glycerol or diglycerol, such as polyglyceryl-2dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference DehymulsPGPH® by the company Henkel (or diglyceryl poly(12-hydroxystearate)), oralternatively poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), such as the product soldunder the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema, and mixturesthereof.

As other dispersants that may be used in the composition of theinvention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives ofpolycondensate fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000® sold by thecompany Avecia, and mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene suchas those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185and DC2-5225 C.

A composition of the invention should be cosmetically ordermatologically acceptable, i.e. it should contain a non-toxicphysiologically acceptable medium that can be applied to human lips. Forthe purposes of the invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable” refersto a composition of pleasant appearance, odour and feel.

The composition according to the invention may also contain ingredientscommonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, traceelements, softeners, sequestrants, fragrances, acidifying agents,basifying agents, preserving agents, sunscreens, surfactants,antioxidants, hair-loss counteractants, antidandruff agents andpropellants, or mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthis or these optional additional compounds, and/or the amount thereof,such that the advantageous properties of the corresponding compositionaccording to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adverselyimpaired by the envisaged addition.

According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmeticassembly comprising:

i) a container delimiting at least one compartment, the said containerbeing closed by a closing member; and

ii) a composition placed inside the said compartment, the compositionbeing in accordance with the invention.

The container may be in any adequate form. It may especially be in theform of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a sachet or a carton.

The closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, acap, a tear-off strip or a capsule, especially of the type comprising abody attached to the container and a cover cap articulated on the body.It may also be in the form of a member for selectively closing thecontainer, especially a pump, a valve or a flap valve.

The container may be combined with an applicator, especially in the formof a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twistedwire. Such a twisted brush is described especially in U.S. Pat. No.4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a pluralityof application members, obtained especially by moulding. Such combs aredescribed, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be inthe form of a fine brush, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or ofelastomer, a felt or a spatula. The applicator may be free (tuft orsponge) or securely fastened to a rod borne by the closing member, asdescribed, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,492,426. The applicator maybe securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, inpatent FR 2 761 959.

The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.By way of example, the product may be arranged on an impregnatedsupport, especially in the form of a wipe or a pad, and arranged(individually or in plurality) in a box or in a sachet. Such a supportincorporating the product is described, for example, in patentapplication WO 01/03538.

The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing.Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the containeris done other than by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, byclick-fastening, gripping, welding, bonding or by magnetic attraction.The term “click-fastening” in particular means any system involving thecrossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of aportion, especially of the closing member, followed by return to theelastically unconstrained position of the said portion after thecrossing of the bead or cord.

The container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material.Examples of thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned includepolypropylene or polyethylene.

Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material,especially glass or metal (or alloy).

The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, especially inthe form of a tube or a tubular bottle.

The container may comprise means for distributing or facilitating thedistribution of the composition. By way of example, the container mayhave deformable walls so as to allow the composition to exit in responseto a positive pressure inside the container, this positive pressurebeing caused by elastic (or non-elastic) squeezing of the walls of thecontainer. Alternatively, especially when the product is in the form ofa stick, the product may be driven out by a piston mechanism. Still inthe case of a stick, especially of makeup product (lipstick, foundation,etc.), the container may comprise a mechanism, especially a rackmechanism, a threaded-rod mechanism or a helical groove mechanism, andmay be capable of moving a stick in the direction of the said aperture.Such a mechanism is described, for example, in patent FR 2 806 273 or inpatent FR 2 775 566. Such a mechanism for a liquid product is describedin patent FR 2 727 609.

The container may be formed from a carton with a base delimiting atleast one housing containing the composition, and a lid, especiallyarticulated on the base, and capable of at least partially covering thesaid base. Such a carton is described, for example, in patentapplication WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.

The container may be equipped with a drainer arranged in the region ofthe aperture of the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipethe applicator and possibly the rod to which it may be securelyfastened. Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792618.

The composition may be at atmospheric pressure inside the container (atroom temperature) or pressurized, especially by means of a propellentgas (aerosol). In the latter case, the container is equipped with avalve (of the type used for aerosols).

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic product for making upand/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least twocompositions that can be applied successively to keratin materials,especially to the lips.

The present invention also relates to a process for making up the faceand the body using these two compositions. They are preferably appliedsuccessively to the keratin materials: the first composition and thenthe second composition.

These two compositions are conventionally known as a topcoat and abasecoat.

Thus, according to this embodiment, the invention relates to a product(also known as a kit) for making up and/or caring for keratin materials,especially the lips, comprising a first composition and a secondcomposition conditioned in separate containers,

-   -   the first composition containing, in a physiologically        acceptable medium:

a) a siloxane resin comprising the following units:

(i) (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a)

(ii) (R² ₂SiO_(2/2))_(b)

(iii) (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) and

(iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d)

with

R¹, R² and R³ independently representing an alkyl group containing from1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group,

a being between 0.05 and 0.5,

b being between 0 and 0.3,

c being greater than 0,

d being between 0.05 and 0.6,

a+b+c+d=1,

on condition that more than 40 mol % of the groups R³ of the siloxaneresin are propyl groups, and

b) at least one non-volatile oil with a viscosity at 25° C. of less thanor equal to 30 000 cPs,

-   -   and the second composition, which is different from the first,        comprising at least one fatty substance.

The fatty substance of the second composition is preferably chosen fromwaxes and non-volatile oils.

According to one preferred embodiment, the second composition comprisesat least one wax and at least one non-volatile oil.

Advantageously, the wax is a sunflower wax.

Preferably, the non-volatile oil is an oil such as caprylic/capric acidtriglycerides.

The presence of a second composition applied over the first compositiononto the keratin materials can especially improve the gloss and/orcomfort properties.

The content of all the patents or patent applications cited previouslyis incorporated by reference into the present patent application.

In the patent application, unless specifically mentioned otherwise, thecontents are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight ofthe composition.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples describedbelow, which are given as non-limiting illustrations. The percentagesare weight percentages.

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of the Siloxane Resins

The following resins are used:

MQ resin=an MQ resin of formula M_(0.43)Q_(0.57) and of M_(n)=3230dissolved in xylene to a proportion of 70.8% by weight of solids. The MQresin was manufactured according to the techniques described by Daudt inU.S. Pat. No. 2,676,182.

T Propyl resin=a propyl silsesquioxane resin at 74.8% by weight intoluene. The propyl silsesquioxane resin was obtained by hydrolysis ofpropyltrichlorosilane.

Preparation of the MQT^(Pr) resins

An MQ resin, a T propyl resin, xylene and 1M KOH in water in theproportions presented in Table 1 are introduced into a 3-necked flaskequipped with a stirrer, a temperature probe and Dean-Stark apparatusmounted with a condenser. Xylene is pre-introduced into the Dean-Starkapparatus so as to ensure maintenance of a level of solids of 50% in thereactor. The mixture in the reactor is refluxed (between 100 and 140°C.) for at least 3 hours. Any water formed in the reaction mixture iscontinuously removed and trapped in the form of an azeotrope in theDean-Stark apparatus. After refluxing for 3 hours, the water is removedfrom the apparatus and heating is continued for a further 30 minutes.After cooling the mixture, an excess of acetic acid is added toneutralize the KOH in the mixture. The mixture is then filtered toremove the salts formed, by passing it through a filter under pressure.Solvent exchange is performed by heating the mixture in a rotaryevaporator under vacuum. After removing the majority of the xylene,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (or isododecane) is added while continuingto remove any residual aromatic solvent. The structures of the resultingsiloxane resins are characterized by ²⁹Si NMR and GPC, and the resultsare summarized in Table 2 below.

TABLE 1 Weight Weight Weight Weight Mass ratio % of % of T Weight % of %of of MQ/T^(Pr) MQ propyl % of 1M acetic Example # resins added resinresin xylene KOH acid 1-a (85:15) 59.4 10.5 29.1 0.9 0.2 1-b (50:50)34.9 34.8 29.1 0.9 0.2 1-c (30:70) 20.9 48.8 29.2 0.9 0.2 1-d (95:5) 67.1 3.5 28.3 0.9 0.2 1-e (100:0)  69.3 0 28.8 0.9 0.2

TABLE 2 Resin structure according to NMR Weight Example #characterization % of OH Mn Mw Mw/Mn MQ resin M^(0.43)Q^(0.57) 3230  1516 4.7 T Propyl resin T^(Pr) _(1.0) 7.0 3470 11 400 3.3 1-aM_(0.374)Q_(0.529):T^(Pr) _(0.097) 1.4 5880 271 000  46.1 1-bM_(0.248)Q_(0.341):T^(Pr) _(0.412) 2.1 6640 3 860 000   581.3 1-cM_(0.162)Q_(0.217):T^(Pr) _(0.621) 1.5 7600 25 300 000    3329 1-dM_(0.419)Q_(0.5485):T^(Pr) _(0.03) 1.5 1-e MQ 1.7 5200 28 900 5.6

EXAMPLE 2 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningDimethicone (Dow Corning 5.0 200 Fluid 5 cSt) RED 7 (Unipure Red LC 30791.0 OR from LCW (Sensient)) Total: 100

Procedure:

-   -   a. The fillers and pigments optionally present are ground in        part of the oily phase.    -   b. The rest of the liposoluble ingredients are then mixed        together at a temperature of about 100° C. The ground mixture is        then added to the oily phase.    -   c. The mixture is stirred with a Rayneri blender for 45 minutes,        and the siloxane resin is added at room temperature.    -   d. The formulation is poured into isododecane-leaktight heating        bags.

The composition obtained forms a glossy, comfortable and non-tackydeposit on the lips.

EXAMPLE 3 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningDimethicone (Dow Corning 5.0 200 Fluid 350 cSt) RED 7 (Unipure Red LC3079 1.0 OR from LCW (Sensient)) Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a glossy, comfortable, non-tacky depositon the lips.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 4 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningDimethicone (Dow Corning 5.0 200 Fluid 500 000 cSt) RED 7 (Unipure RedLC 3079 1.0 OR from LCW (Sensient)) Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a rigid and non-plasticized,uncomfortable film on the lips.

EXAMPLE 5 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningHydrogenated polyisobutene 5.0 (Parleam from NOF Corporation) RED 7(Unipure Red LC 3079 1.0 OR from LCW (Sensient)) Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a glossy, comfortable, non-tacky depositon the lips.

EXAMPLE 6 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin 84.0 (30/70) inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningHydrogenated 5.0 polyisobutene (Parleam V from NOF Corporation) RED 7(Unipure Red LC 1.0 3079 OR from LCW (Sensient)) Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a glossy, comfortable, non-tacky depositon the lips.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 7 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningHydrogenated polyisobutene 5.0 (Parleam SV from NOF Corporation) RED 7(Unipure Red LC 3079 1.0 OR from LCW (Sensient)) Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a rigid and non-plasticized,uncomfortable film on the lips.

EXAMPLE 8 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow Corning Isononylisononanoate 5.0 RED 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 1.0 OR from LCW (Sensient))Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a glossy, comfortable, non-tacky depositon the lips.

EXAMPLE 9 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed below:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningDiisostearyl malate 5 RED 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 1.0 OR from LCW(Sensient)) Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a glossy, comfortable, non-tacky depositon the lips.

EXAMPLE 10 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningDilinoleic acid/butanediol 5.0 copolymer (Viscoplast 14436 H fromBiosynthis) RED 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 1.0 OR from LCW (Sensient))Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a comfortable, non-tacky, matt deposit onthe lips.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 11 Liquid Lipstick

The following composition was prepared according to the proceduredescribed previously:

Weight Formulation percentage % MQ-T Propyl resin (30/70) 84.0 inisododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above, from Dow CorningPolybutene Indopol H 1500 5 (Ineos) RED 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079 1.0 ORfrom LCW (Sensient)) Total: 100

The composition obtained forms a rigid, non-plasticized, uncomfortablefilm on the lips.

EXAMPLE 12 Compact Powder

Mass % A1 Titanium dioxide CI 77891 2 Yellow iron oxide CI 77492 0.92Red iron oxide CI 77491 0.64 Black iron oxide CI 77499 0.1 Mica 10 A2Magnesium stearate 2.51 Mica 20 Nylon 12 powder 20 Talc 34 B1 MQ-Tpropyl resin (30/70) in 8 isododecane as prepared in Example 1-C above,from Dow Corning Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 1.23 10 cSt) Fluid DC200 10 cSt from Dow Corning Caprylic/capric triglyceride (Myritol 4318 ® by the company Cognis) B2 Preserving agents 0.6 Total 100%

Procedure

The constituents of phase A1 are weighed out.

The constituents of phase A2 are weighed out. Phases A1 and A2 areplaced in a mixer of Lodige type for 10 minutes.

The constituents of phase B1 are added successively, and the mixture isthen homogenized in the Lodige mixer for 10 minutes.

Finally, phase B2 is added and the resulting mixture is homogenized inthe mixer for 3 minutes.

The composition is screened using a 250 μm screen.

The composition is finally passed through a mill of Alpine type.

1. A process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials,comprising: applying to the keratin materials, a composition comprising,in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a siloxane resin comprisingthe following units: (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a) (ii) (R² ₂SiO_(2/2))_(b) (iii)(R³ ₂SiO_(3/2))_(c) and (iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d) wherein R¹, R² and R³ areeach independently an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms,an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a is between 0.05 and0.5, b is between 0 and 0.3, c is greater than 0, d is between 0.05 and0.6, a+b+c+d=1, with the proviso that more than 40 mol % of the groupsR³ of the siloxane resin are propyl groups, and b) at least onenon-volatile oil with a viscosity at 25° C. of less than or equal to 30000 cPs.
 2. The process for making up and/or caring for keratinmaterials according to claim 1, wherein the siloxane resin comprises thefollowing units: (i) (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a) (iii) (R³SiO_(3/2)), and (iv)(SiO_(4/2))_(d) wherein R¹ and R³ are each independently an alkyl groupcontaining from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a is between 0.05 and 0.5, c isgreater than zero, d is between 0.05 and 0.6, a+b+c+d=1, with theproviso that more than 40 mol % of the groups R³ of the siloxane resinare propyl groups.
 3. The process for making up and/or caring forkeratin materials according to claim 1, wherein the siloxane resin isobtained via a process comprising the reaction between: A) an MQ resincomprising at least 80 mol % of units (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a) and(SiO_(4/2))_(d) wherein R¹ is a methyl group, a and d are each greaterthan zero, a ratio a/d is between 0.5 and 1.5; and B) a T propyl resincomprising at least 80 mol % of units (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c), wherein R³ is apropyl group, c is greater than zero, and a mass ratio A/B is between95/5 and 15/85.
 4. The process for making up and/or caring for keratinmaterials according to claim 1 wherein the said non-volatile oil ishydrocarbon-based or silicone based.
 5. The process for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials according to claim 1 wherein thenon-volatile oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil selected from the groupconsisting of: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin selected from thegroup consisting of wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesameseed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil,olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil,cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil,poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil,blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoaoil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and muskrose oil; caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; synthetic ethers; linearor branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, selected fromthe group consisting of liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, squalane, andmixtures thereof; fatty acid esters, of acids selected from the groupconsisting of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid,lauric acid and stearic acid, synthetic esters of formula R₁COOR₂ inwhich R₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprisingfrom 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-basedchain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso thatR₁+R₂≧11 hydroxylated esters, selected from the group consisting ofisostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryltriisostearateand diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritolesters; esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols comprising 4 to 22carbon atoms, polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturatedfatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of a diol; fatty alcohols that areliquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturatedcarbon-based chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms —C₈-C₂₆ higherfatty acids; and mixtures thereof.
 6. The process for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials according to claim 5, wherein the saidnon-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is an ester oils oil, with aviscosity at 25° C. of less than or equal to 2000 cPs, and linear orbranched hydrocarbons.
 7. The process for making up and/or caring forkeratin materials according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile oil isa silicone oil, with a viscosity at 25° C. of between 5 and 1000 cPs,selected from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanescomprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and/or at the endof a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbonatoms, and phenyl silicone oils.
 8. The process for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials, according to claim 1, wherein thenon-volatile oil is a C6-C22 hydrocarbon-based oil, selected from thegroup consisting of: carbonates of formula (I):R1-O—C(═O)—O—R′1,  (I) wherein R1 and R′1, which may be identical ordifferent, are a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C12and alkyl chain, optionally containing at least one saturated orunsaturated ring; the monoesters of formula (II):R2-O—C(═O)—R′2  (II) wherein R2 and R′2, which may be identical ordifferent, are a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C12and alkyl chain, optionally containing at least one saturated orunsaturated ring; diesters of the formula (III):R3-O—C(═O)—R′3-C(═O)—O—R″3 wherein R3 and R″3, which may be identical ordifferent, are a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C12alkyl chain, optionally bearing at least one saturated or unsaturated,ring; and R′3 is a saturated or unsaturated C1 to C4 alkylene chain theethers of the formula (IV):R4-O—R4′  (IV) wherein R4 and R4′, which may be identical or different,are a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C4 to C12 alkylchain, optionally bearing at least one saturated or unsaturated ring;the alkyl triesters of formula (V):R5-O—C(O)—CH2-CH[—O—C(O)—R′5]—CH2-O—C(O)—R″5  (V) wherein R5, R′5 andR″5, which may be identical or different, are a linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated C4-C 10 and alkyl chain, caprylic/capric acidtriglycerides; and mixtures thereof.
 9. The process for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials according to claim 1 wherein a content ofthe non-volatile oil is from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition.
 10. The process for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials according to claim 1, wherein a totalresins solids of the siloxane resin is from 1% to 80% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.
 11. The process for making upand/or caring for keratin materials according to claim 1, wherein thecomposition comprises less than 3% by weight of water relative to thetotal weight of the composition.
 12. The process for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials according to claim 1, wherein thecomposition further comprises at least one structuring agent selectedfrom the group consisting of thickeners, organogelling agents, waxes,pasty fatty substances and gums.
 13. The process for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials according to claim 1, wherein thecomposition further comprises at least one film-forming polymer.
 14. Theprocess for making up and/or caring for keratin materials according toclaim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one dyestuffand/or at least one filler.
 15. A composition for making up and/orcaring for keratin materials, comprising in a physiologically acceptablemedium: a) a siloxane resin comprising the following units: (i) (R¹₃SiO_(1/2))_(a) (ii) (R² ₂SiO_(2/2))_(b) (iii) (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) and(iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d) wherein R¹, R² and R³ are each independently analkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, acarbinol group or an amino group, a is between 0.05 and 0.5, b isbetween 0 and 0.3, c is greater than 0, d is between 0.05 and 0.6,a+b+c+d=1, on condition with the proviso that more than 40 mol % of thegroups R³ of the siloxane resin are propyl groups, and b) at least onenon-volatile oil with a viscosity at 25° C. of less than or equal to 30000 cPs.
 16. A product for making up and/or caring for keratinmaterials, comprising: a first composition and a second compositionconditioned in separate containers; wherein the first compositioncomprises in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a siloxane resincomprising the following units: (i) (R¹ ₃SiO_(1/2))_(a) (ii) (R²₂SiO_(2/2))_(b) (iii) (R³SiO_(3/2))_(c) and (iv) (SiO_(4/2))_(d) whereinR¹, R² and R³ are each independently an alkyl group containing from 1 to8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a isbetween 0.05 and 0.5, b is between 0 and 0.3, c is greater than 0, d isbetween 0.05 and 0.6, a+b+c+d=1, with the proviso that more than 40 mol% of the groups R³ of the siloxane resin are propyl groups, and b) atleast one non-volatile oil with a viscosity at 25° C. of less than orequal to 30 000 cPs, and the second composition, which is different fromthe first, comprises at least one fatty substance.